Table of Contents
Frequently Asked Questions And Inboard Tech Tips
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- BATTERY NOT CHARGING
- BATTERY OVERHEATING-MELTED TERMINALS
- BATTERY, TO DETERMINE IF A DRAW ON BATTERY
- BILGE PUMP NOT RUNNING
- OVERHEATING TROUBLESHOOT
- NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH
- TRANSMISSION SLIPPING
- WATER TEMP SENDER
1) Check battery volts, cranking power (bad cell possible).
2) Alternator or regulator
3) Bad connection or corroded connection.
1) Inspect battery cable. Be sure it is clean and tight. Look for corrosion, wear, age, looseness, dirt.
2) Check your grounds.
3) Check your starter.
Note: If you have wing nuts holding down the eyelet-end of the battery cable on
a 5/16 stud then we recommend cutting off eyelet ends and replacing with good battery cable, post clamps.
Disconnect negative cable on battery.
Use test light between negative battery cable and negative battery post. If its lights, there is a draw. (Circuit is completed through negative terminal to negative cable through the test light.)
Stereo, horn anything will light it.
1) Check fuse/circuit breaker, to see if it has popped.
2) Check power to pump with a test light probe.
3) Activate float switch-listen if it comes on.
4) Check pump for debris in grooves.
*Float switch is located near pump at lowest point of bilge. (There is a positive lead from battery to float switch. Float switch provides positive wire to the pump).
HOLLEY CARB ADJUSTMENT
1. Rev up the engine to clear it out.
2. Turn air screw in until you hear engine begin to bog and miss.
3. Now, turn screw out with 1/2 increments until you hear that the engine is steady and running smoothly.
4. Repeat procedure on air screw on opposite side of the metering block.
(Question1) -What is normal operating temp for your boat?
(Question2) - Does it stabilize? As long as it stabilizes you are generally okay.
ALWAYS Start At The Source, at the Clamshell or the Water Pickup.
1) Ck Transmission Cooler For Blockage.
2) Ck Water Strainer for O-ring.
3) Ck Impeller for wear.
4) Run Volume Efficiency Test on R/W pump (15 sec, 3000 RPMs
to fill a 5 gal. Bucket). Determines if problem is before or after
the R/W pump.
5) Remove Thermostat, see if it runs cool indicating you had a stuck thermostat. Replace if necessary.
6) Check circulating pump:
1) Screw hose barb into engine block drain.
2) Rev engine, it should shoot water out.
3) If it dribbles out, you've proven circ pump is bad.
7) Check Gauge by: Taking wire off and ground it. If it
peg's gauge, that indicates gage working and you may have a sender problem.
8) Do the hand test on each riser. If the top of the riser gets too hot to touch, you're over heating the exhaust system.
THE BOTTOM LINE IS-Building up heat at idle is generally an impeller problem!
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1) A neutral safety switch is to preclude engine from starting unless you're in neutral.
2) To verify the safety switch is working properly, tie wires to one side of neutral safety switch. If engine starts each and every time, the neutral safety switch was causing your interference.
Q: When was fluid last changed?
Q: What is the fluid level?
Minimal slipping usually is just a matter of adding more fluid.
NOTE: New transmissions are recommended only when teeth on gears are broken on the input shaft\output shaft or on planetary gears OR when case is broken.
1. Take the wire off and ground it on the block of the engine.
2. If it pegs the
gauge with the key on, the wiring and gauge are working, and it's probably a bad
sender or connection.
Discount Inboard Marine, LLC
2113 1/2 Wessinger Road / Chapin / SC 29036
Phone / (803) 345-0996 / Fax / (803) 345-0792